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View Full Version : Anybody (Stuart, MIke, Kevin) make any rig decisions??



bbking9
07-15-2012, 09:57 PM
Checkin to see if you guys have stuck your toe in the water?

04 silver bullet
07-16-2012, 02:14 PM
Ya im getting a rtr wraith

bbking9
07-16-2012, 03:41 PM
cool. dont forget to flip those lower shock mounts and move the battery up front.

You'll be good to go.

ace138
07-16-2012, 03:50 PM
Sweet another FELLOW RTR brotha :biggrin:. You will love your RTR Wraith, I love mine!

X2 on what BBking said and go with a 2S Lipo for juice. It's a good speed for trails and mild crawlin, plus it should keep you from tearing things up.

mikeTRON
07-17-2012, 10:54 AM
Well you asked for it... lol

Here are my plans so far:
Wraith KIT (I'm dying to build something and my 1:1 is too pricey for now lol)
Holmes 13T Crawlmaster motor
Castle BEC (probably the PRO version so when I upgrade to multiple servos later for DIG or 4wheel steering)
o I am thinking about the waterproof edition BUT I haven't researched how effective or easy it is to waterproof the Non-waterproof model
Holmes BRXL or Castle MAMBA MAX Pro ESC (BOTH seem to be out of stock)
Futaba 9157 Servo - not sure on it yet... looking at HITEC as well
Used 4 chan radio – looking for Futaba 4PL
o What is the Spektrum DX3c worth used? With receiver? I found one for 90; it is only a 3 channel though.
Used beadlocks
Used Proline TSL Swamper tires
I haven’t decided on foams. Thoughts?
Battery: 5250mah 3s LiPo and probably a 2s 5k mah and a 1.5k mah just because they are cheap and I want to compare how it drives with the different battery voltages and weights. (OCD?)
Battery Charger: Onyx 235 - used $50 (IS THIS WORTH IT?) What battery charger do you recommend and WHY? I haven't researched this much...



Okay now for the upgrades:
The upgraded universals come in the KIT.
Upgraded Knuckles
Upgraded C Hubs
Upgraded upper and lower links
Steering links
How important is it to have upgraded lockouts?
DRIVESHAFTS - I am looking at MIP, TOPCAD and HOT RACING driveshafts, $64,24 and 16 respectively. What do you guys recommend on this front?
I am also still researching Spur and Pinion gears and plan to upgrade those immediately to 32 pitch gears (from 42) and I haven’t decided on what gearing I want to go with. I might buy a few sets to see where I want it the most and to watch the temp of the motor. At the moment I am looking at 84-87 tooth spur gear range with a 14-18 tooth pinion range, any thoughts?
Should I upgrade the transmission gear while I am at it? I have been looking at the Robinson Racing Hardened metal gear. Thoughts?
I will flip the shocks and relocated the battery also.

Does anyone see any flaws in my plan so far? ALSO has anyone found any stellar deals on the KIT?
The best I can find is 280+shipping.

bbking9
07-17-2012, 11:12 AM
Haven't given it much thought I see - eh mike?

WOW !! First off. Tower Hobbies has the kit for $280 including free shipping.

Drive shafts - I just put on some MIPs. Like $55.

This thing has a ton of steering already - so 4WS not needed unless you just want to.

$90 for a DX3C is a great price - but youre right - only 3 channel. 4PLs are expensive.

Foams - go to Crawlerinnovations.com TSLs come with foam. I think stock foams would be fine.

Mamba Max Pro is what I am running - but People love the BRXL too.

BAttery charger - absoultely - the Thunder AC6 from Hobbypartz.com $42 new. free shipping over $50 - buy a couple lipos.

Looks like you got this thing figured out. Come up with a cost to do all this??

My new rear solid locker will be here Thursday !!

mikeTRON
07-17-2012, 11:40 AM
Haven't given it much thought I see - eh mike?

WOW !! First off. Tower Hobbies has the kit for $280 including free shipping.
Drive shafts - I just put on some MIPs. Like $55.
This thing has a ton of steering already - so 4WS not needed unless you just want to.
$90 for a DX3C is a great price - but youre right - only 3 channel. 4PLs are expensive.
Foams - go to Crawlerinnovations.com TSLs come with foam. I think stock foams would be fine.
Mamba Max Pro is what I am running - but People love the BRXL too.
BAttery charger - absoultely - the Thunder AC6 from Hobbypartz.com $42 new. free shipping over $50 - buy a couple lipos.
Looks like you got this thing figured out. Come up with a cost to do all this??
My new rear solid locker will be here Thursday !!

Nah I haven't given much thought yet.... LOL

When I checked tower hobbies it didn't have free shipping, but now it does. SWEET!

Where did you get your MIP shafts?
What did you pay for your DX3C and Rx? Would you say it is a good bang for the buck? Is there anything you wish it had that is doesn't?

What tires do you guys recommend? I like the TSLs but have NO idea how they perform.
why did you choose the MMP ESC?

I have a rough estimate on cost for all of this (I love EXCEL) but there are big variances when I throw in 3chanvs 4chan and NEW vs used... so the estimate isnt super accurate. Also I didnt include shipping on anything new.

I would LOVE to purchase EVERYTHING from 1 vender but I don't know if anyone carries it ALL, especially if I decide to stay with the holmes motor.

Why did you go with your motor?

mikeTRON
07-17-2012, 12:13 PM
Thanks for you input. I am aware of matching the pitch of the gears. I actually used to be an ASE master certified mechanic before I went back to college. :)

I want to be about the middle of the road for now and possibly have another set to slow down for crawling.

I figured since the 32pitch gears are so cheap I might as well upgrade them. Also I wont have the stock 20t motor since I am getting the kit.

So If I am upgrading the motor should I be worried about the stock gears?

bbking9
07-17-2012, 12:54 PM
Nah I haven't given much thought yet.... LOL

When I checked tower hobbies it didn't have free shipping, but now it does. SWEET!

Where did you get your MIP shafts?
What did you pay for your DX3C and Rx? Would you say it is a good bang for the buck? Is there anything you wish it had that is doesn't?

What tires do you guys recommend? I like the TSLs but have NO idea how they perform.
why did you choose the MMP ESC?

I have a rough estimate on cost for all of this (I love EXCEL) but there are big variances when I throw in 3chanvs 4chan and NEW vs used... so the estimate isnt super accurate. Also I didnt include shipping on anything new.

I would LOVE to purchase EVERYTHING from 1 vender but I don't know if anyone carries it ALL, especially if I decide to stay with the holmes motor.

Why did you go with your motor?

Yea - you want free shipping - the Kit is about $20 to ship.

MIP driveshafts I got off eBay from Power Hobby.
DX3C new $129 - I think you can do 4ws with a 3C by the way - but not a dig also.
Right now - it does everything I think I'll ever need. But you never know.

TSLs look awesome and are really tall - but dont think they are going to crawl quite as well as HB Rovers. But I'll bet not too much difference.

I got the MMP and Tekin Pro4 3300kv as a combo from a guy on here named Tremelle.

I got the motor I have because it is by far the baddest A__ brushless motor you can buy !!

Your best bet to buy all from 1 vendor is RPP Hobbies. His name is Corey. I think his Kit is $289. He can get Holmes motors as well - I beleive. Over $300 - free shipping. Plus he is the fastest shipper I have ever dealt with.

The biggest delay you will have is the Holmes motor - handwound motors form him I beleive, take 3-4 weeks to arrive.

Edit - Mike - not sure if this interests you but if you want a full alum body - go to ebay and searsh advancedmetalfabs. For about $65
you can get 0.040 body panels - rear filler panel with tow hook. roof and hood. Quality is very nice. I had it on my first Wraith.

here is pic:

706

EDIT - MikeTRON - saw the 3C on rccrawler you are talking about. It looks great - especially for the price.
The good thing about that deal - is when you want to move up to 4ch - you can sell the 3C for what you paid for it.

mikeTRON
07-19-2012, 08:59 AM
So I have been pricing and looking at shipping, best deals and such. It is MUCH more costly to buy a new kit vs buying something used with the components you want OR to sell what you don't want to buy what you do.

The build I have above is about $1200 with the best prices I could find and assuming I did everything on the list with no deviations. o_O

Also I am still not sure on the brushed vs brush-less setups. I have been reading about guys with the 13.5t crawlmaster motor in the wraith needing brushes about every 3 runs... is that NORMAL?

Do any of you guys run in water or mud? I wasnt sure so I figured it would be safer to go brushless then go duplicate BBKING with his setup then fry it in a drop of h20...

Discuss.

Sh0rtBus
07-19-2012, 09:13 AM
I have yet to take my Wraith through any of the wet stuff. My ESC is waterproofed and my servo is water & dust tight from the factory (Hitec HS5995TG). Haven't waterproofed my radio box or CC BEC yet, but I don't think I'll get water that high up. I have the BEC mounted on the crossmember that goes between the a-pillars just behind the dash.

I would think, though, that if you're planning on any water at all, a brushed motor is probably your best bet. At least that's what I keep reading anyway.

bbking9
07-19-2012, 09:24 AM
At Arbor Hills there are some shallow streams to cross - I'll do that - but above the hub line - Im picking mine up. Brushless and water dont mix.

All the stuff you mentioned can bbe done over time and I'll think you'll find you dont really need all the upgrades you mentioned.

Holmes motors - I ran a 27T machine wound for many hours - never touched it. 3 hrs sounds really extreme.

I know a guy (who still owes me $20) who may have a Wraith for sale. A really hopped up one. His name is Jeff Barrett - PM me or text me
and I'll give you his phone number. I think he has basically my old one as well. Just not sure if he is selling. He might as well. He never comes out.

mikeTRON
07-19-2012, 02:03 PM
I sent you a text bbking.

Yeah all of my upgrades are based on what people say they break as I clearly have less than 5 minutes experience with a Wraith :)

Sh0rtBus
07-20-2012, 09:00 AM
mikeTRON:

I was looking at your upgrade list again and I'm thinking you can save at least $100 by making your own upper & lower links and steering links. It's not that hard at all. Need some 3/8 steel rod that you can pick up at Home Depot for about $3/stick and a set of REVO ball ends. Everything else is basically done using hand tools. Tubing bender, tap & die set, and something to cut the steel rod with. I've even got a stick of the rod I'd be willing to donate to your cause if you want to go that route. I bought my upper & lower links, but I'm in the process of making my own steering links. My drag link is done, and even sleeved to make it even stronger, not that it needs to be. Haven't made the tie rod yet simply because I've been busy fixing other things, but with any luck I'll get it done next week.

And the stuff I mentioned to fab them up with? Same stuff used to make my R2j upper & lower links that I paid $60 for.

Edit: Just found this on CL.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/tag/3148126033.html

ace138
07-20-2012, 09:57 AM
If I didn't have a mighty RTR Wraith, I would have built a kit with the following:

Electronics - a cheap 2S 5000 MAH 40C Lipo Batt / HH BRXL/ rc4wd 35T *brushless* /a cheap 200 oz servo / DX3E

Susp - Stock droop setting with the lower shock mounts flipped

Steering - run the stock plasic steering links, run glue on the CHUB and knuckle screws.

Sh0rtBus
07-20-2012, 12:05 PM
If I didn't have a mighty RTR Wraith, I would have built a kit with the following:

Electronics - a cheap 2S 5000 MAH 40C Lipo Batt / HH BRXL/ rc4wd 35T *brushless* /a cheap 200 oz servo / DX3E

Susp - Stock droop setting with the lower shock mounts flipped

Steering - run the stock plasic steering links, run glue on the CHUB and knuckle screws.

Definitley don't want to skimp on the servo. In the rocks, especially with weighted wheels, you need to steering power of a good servo. Not to mention a good BEC to regulate voltage to said servo for maximum efficiency. Hell, I still have my RTR servo if someone needs it. Might work as a spare for me, but I can certainly live without it. So far my HS5995TG is keeping up very well!

As for glue on the chub & knuckle screws....that's pretty much why I'm replacing my chubs and knuckles right now. Couldn't get the screws out of the driver's side knuckle, so I had to cut the "arms" off the chub to get it off. And still can't get the screws out of the knuckles. And I only used red Loc-Tite....not glue.

This go-round, I'll use Loc-Tite on the chubs, but I'll switch to 3mmx10 machine screws for the knuckles, as opposed to the self-tappers Axial uses.

ace138
07-20-2012, 01:25 PM
You could have got the screw out if you used CA glue. Redlocktite is overkill for RC. On RCs, for metal to metal contact use nothing stronger than Bluetite. I also learned that lesson the hardway :brickwall:.

If you run a HH BRXL, you can skip the BEC. That's why I'm willing to pay $99 for one. Good drag brake, don't need a BEC and it never gets hot. IIRC it's good up to 6S LIPO (WOW).

If your planning on running your wraith as a straight up rock crawler, I wouldn't. It wasn't designed for that. :mrgreen:

Sh0rtBus
07-20-2012, 01:38 PM
You could have got the screw out if you used CA glue. Redlocktite is overkill for RC. On RCs, for metal to metal contact use nothing stronger than Bluetite. I also learned that lesson the hardway :brickwall:.

If you run a HH BRXL, you can skip the BEC. That's why I'm willing to pay $99 for one. Good drag brake, don't need a BEC and it never gets hot. IIRC it's good up to 6S LIPO (WOW).

If your planning on running your wraith as a straight up rock crawler, I wouldn't. It wasn't designed for that. :mrgreen:

No, I run it more as a trail rig than anything, but there are times when having good steering power is a must.

mikeTRON
07-20-2012, 03:18 PM
mikeTRON:

I was looking at your upgrade list again and I'm thinking you can save at least $100 by making your own upper & lower links and steering links. It's not that hard at all. Need some 3/8 steel rod that you can pick up at Home Depot for about $3/stick and a set of REVO ball ends. Everything else is basically done using hand tools. Tubing bender, tap & die set, and something to cut the steel rod with. I've even got a stick of the rod I'd be willing to donate to your cause if you want to go that route. I bought my upper & lower links, but I'm in the process of making my own steering links. My drag link is done, and even sleeved to make it even stronger, not that it needs to be. Haven't made the tie rod yet simply because I've been busy fixing other things, but with any luck I'll get it done next week.

And the stuff I mentioned to fab them up with? Same stuff used to make my R2j upper & lower links that I paid $60 for.

Edit: Just found this on CL.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/tag/3148126033.html

Hey thanks for the info, I have actually been researching making my own links and found the same info essentially. I don't have a quality bender anymore after I let a friend (dont remember who) borrow it to bend lines for his 1:1 brake lines.

I would definitely like to see the aftermarket links to compare what I can fab vs buy. I would much prefer to fab something since they are $20 a set and you need 4 sets.

I already contacted that guy on CL in grapevine a while ago lol I have apps alert me when something pops up of interest ::thumbsup:

That wraith is overpriced for what I want though. $325 with some links, a CHEAP servo with less than 200 oz/in and a new plastic body.:eek2:
NO LIPO
NO electronic upgrades

SO I figured I would still prefer a KIT and build it since I will replace most of that anyways. I am still looking through used though :biggrin:

mikeTRON
07-20-2012, 03:22 PM
If I didn't have a mighty RTR Wraith, I would have built a kit with the following:

Electronics - a cheap 2S 5000 MAH 40C Lipo Batt / HH BRXL/ rc4wd 35T *brushless* /a cheap 200 oz servo / DX3E

Susp - Stock droop setting with the lower shock mounts flipped

Steering - run the stock plasic steering links, run glue on the CHUB and knuckle screws.
This is assuming you can find the HH BR-XL since it it always out of stock and not going to be back in stock until mid August. ALSO the BRXL is for brushed not brushless, correct?

(I have located a few though)

While on the subject: Would you guys rather spend $110 for the HH BR-XL or 110 for the mamba max pro?

ace138
07-20-2012, 03:38 PM
Yes I suggest making your own links for any rig, it's super easy and cheap. I make mine out of stainless tube, Traxxas rodends and 8/32 all-thread. The REVO ends work great too.

mikeTRON
07-20-2012, 04:16 PM
Oh I wanted to make mine (and the cage) out of saran wrapped Twizzlers so I wont mind snacking when repairing...

bbking9
07-20-2012, 04:29 PM
The Holmes BRXL is built by castle to his specs. The specs for the BRXL and the MMP are pretty much the same. Maybe his BEC is a little better - but not by much.

You can get by without a BEC on his ESC is you're running 2S - but I dont think so if your running 3S.

Sh0rtBus
07-23-2012, 09:11 AM
I mainly run a BEC to regulate voltage to my servo. I don't have it wired to the ESC at all. Currently running 7V to my servo and itworks great!