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Thread: Tommy's Class 1 Jeep

  1. #11
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Good to see the LJ on the up and up:thumbsup: I wouldnt worry about the motor and servo being so close. I mean, I have absolutely no clue in the fields of electricity and radio waves and Im not worried! Looks like you have room in front of the servo and motor to add a servo winch too, but knowing you, it will end up hidden in the back with some finely tuned brace that maximizes leverage and balance and all those other things I know nothing about:mrgreen:

    Nice Jeep Tommy:mrgreen:


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  2. #12
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
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    LOL! Thanks, Steve!

    The grill of the Jeep will be right in front of the motor and servo so there won't be any room for a servo winch up front. That's why I'm going with the CLAW winch this time around. Now I just need to locate one!

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  3. #13
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    Looking good and I will let you know asap when they are back in stock!
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  4. #14
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    Tommy,

    What are you going to do for body mounts? Also, what thickness of styrene do you commonly use for floorpans? Finally, what were the bonding agents you used with the body? I have some Plastruct Bondene already. This is the first hard body I've worked with, and I am kind of at a loss.

    Thanks,
    Jon D.
    Last edited by spankbomb; 12-23-2012 at 04:31 PM. Reason: Had more questions come to mind.

  5. #15
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spankbomb View Post
    Tommy,

    What are you going to do for body mounts? Also, what thickness of styrene do you commonly use for floorpans? Finally, what were the bonding agents you used with the body? I have some Plastruct Bondene already. This is the first hard body I've worked with, and I am kind of at a loss.

    Thanks,
    Jon D.
    Sorry for the delay, Jon. Been pretty busy on other stuff lately!

    For body mounts I'll likely do something pretty similar to Steve's JK. It'll likely be hinged at the rear bumper and have some sort of fastener up front.....kinda like a Funny Car. I haven't yet worked out the specifics yet, however. This body will have a lot of cage work so it'll be heavy. So it'll need to be stout.

    The thickness of styrene that I use is usually based on the kind of structural loads the part will see. I use as thin as possible to keep weight down (.020-.030"). If need be, I'll use upwards of .060" for stuff that needs to support some sort of weight or if it's load bearing. In the case of the LJ, I used a thickness that matched the thickness of the body's material. I think it was .080", but I'm not positive off-hand.

    For this body I had to use the orange label Plastruct. For bonding styrene to styrene, most of the commonly available solvents will work (Bondene, white or orange label Plastruct, Tenax, etc.). But in the case of the LJ I needed to bond styrene to ABS. The orange label Plastruct is the only things I've found that works.....but it works very well!

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  6. #16
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
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    Well, it's not a huge update, but at least it's something. :mrgreen: I spent a bunch of time getting the front suspension sorted out. It's pretty tight quarters with the steering arm, panhard mount, links, chassis, axle, and even the motor all fighting for the same real estate! But I found a good place to mount the panhard onto the chassis w/o interfering with the servo or springs. It's only tacked in place at the moment. I'll fully braze it when the rest of the fab work is done and I strip down the chassis.

    It's mounted at a slight angle to snake it through everything. If you look closely, you'll see I had to trim away some more of the Hand Bros panhard/3-link mount to provide clearance. FYI, some of the links and hardware pictured are for mock-up purposes.


    Front view.


    At full lock driver side with the drag link hooked up.


    Here you can see that I replaced the t-case driveshaft with a plastic version. This is primarily to reduce weight up high to help lower the center of gravity (cg). I'm not yet sure if it'll hold up, but it's not being subjected to as much torque as the other driveshafts so maybe it'll be fine. Time will tell on this one. Oh, and please pardon my messy workbench!


    Battery placement is a pain on this one. I want to have the option to run a bigger 4s battery, but under-body real estate is slim to none with this body! But I found an area to utilize in front of the Jeep's firewall. I made this very lightweight aluminum mount with a "diving board" for the battery to live on. It's puts the battery in the best compromise spot to have it as far forward as possible and also reasonably low. Well, it's pretty high up there, but hopefully it'll be okay. The good news is that I can run very long batteries that span the width of the Jeep so I may look into slimmer, longer batteries to lower the cg. But I think it's my best option.


    You can also see a very rough outline of where the electronics will go. The most sensitive stuff will go up high to get them out of the water. I also picked up a C.L.A.W. winch for the front. Notice the rear is using my old Toyota's servo winch mount, as I plan to run a rear winch on this truck. The mount still needs to be trimmed up and reduced in size.


    I still have a long way to go, but it's making progress, nonetheless! :mrgreen:

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  7. #17
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    Thanks! I saw your post on RCC and found the orange label at Hobby King on North Lamar. Thanks for updating your post with pictures on your front suspension and battery placement. I'm having those same challenges!

    I'll post updates to my thread. Dueling 2nd gen Wranglers!

  8. #18
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
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    Finally decided to make some progress on mounting the body. I'm wrestled with this a lot on this build. On of my biggest concerns is easy/quick battery swaps. I don't want to have a bunch of complicated or time consuming mess to deal with. In addition, I want a body that's solidly mounted. I've had good success with Velcro and utilizing alignment features between the body/chassis. But this body will be pretty heavy with the cage work so I want to do something different.

    I decided to hinge the rear similar to what Steve did and this is what I've come up with so far. This is mock up for now. I will likely bore out the clearance hole in the bracket for a bushing.


    I'll tether it so it doesn't tilt backward too far and risk damaging the body.


    This is my "proof of concept" attempt for the front body mount. They're rare earth magnets. The two shown are glued to the aluminum bracket. Then I have another rare earth magnet glued to the underside of the hood. If this works reasonably well, I'll pick up some larger, stronger magnets to replace these tiny ones. The great part about these magnets is they will always self-center, which is nice. The test will be if they're strong enough.....and if the glue is strong enough to hold them in place. If not, I can try Shoe Goo. If you look at the previous pic, you'll see the one magnet glued to the underside of the hood. The glue is drying at the moment...

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  9. #19
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Its coming together nicely Tommy. I am interested to see how those magnets work out because Ive been looking for something to replace the body clip system I have on the H2.


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  10. #20
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
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    Well, good news... I think the magnet method is going to work pretty well! But to play it safe, I'm going to get some larger, stronger magnets to ensure the body is held down nice and solid.

    So now that the body is secured pretty well, I was able to get some flex shots. The suspension is fully articulated in these pics. I may look into getting a bit more droop travel up front, but it's pretty good where it's at right now.




    I'm currently trying to figure out how I want to build the front bumper. For Class 1 legality it needs to be as wide as the windshield. I would prefer a stubby bumper like I have on my 1:1, but that won't cut it. I suspect I'll do some sort of tube bumper to get the required width. Not really sure, but I'm open to suggestions!


    And here's a straight-on pic of the suspension at the approximate ride height I want. Note the different angles of the track bar and drag link. Not great, but good enough for a crawler. Note how low the motor is, too. I like that, but it does complicate suspension tuning due to a lack of clearance.

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